We finished our build a year and a half ago and even before we started our build I was dreaming about the back covered porch of my dreams. We stretched the back patio the length of our house envisioning we would cover it. Flash forward to now and MY BACK PORCH PATIO COVER IS DONE. I want to shout it from the rooooof tops. Not only are we done, we did every single part of it ourselves and want to share how we did it with you! Seriously, if a stay at home mom (and part time teacher aid) and her engineer husband can do this, you can too... especially because that mentioned engineer husband of mine did all the hard math work for you and we are giving that to you on a silver platter!!
I scoured Pinterest and even google for the exact way to do a covered patio step by step and didn't find a single one. So here we are to fill that hole. We are super detailed in this blog post, but we figured if you wanted to build this thing you'd probably want ALL of the details so we didn't hold back and even though it looks like a lot - it really was a simple build... just takes time and materials! We do have to mention that this is a BIG project and you do not want to do this without the utmost care. Take into account building codes - ours isn't "permanent" so we didn't need a building permit, take into account the amount of snow you get in a year and adjust your slope accordingly. The last thing you want to do is spend the time to build this thing and it be either something your city doesn't allow without a permit, or it to come crashing down after a big snow storm.
LETS DO THIS.
Material List: for our 12' deep by 40' wide patio
Misc Screws
Description
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3” Wood Screws
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1-¼” Wood Screws
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1-¼” 18 Gauge Brad Nails
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1-¼” 18 Gauge Crown Staples
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a. Posts (4)
Quantity
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Description
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4
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4 x 6 x 8’ Pressure Treated
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4
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4 x 6 Metal Post Base
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4
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Concrete Anchors
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16
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1 x 6 x 8’ Cedar Boards (optional)
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b. Cross Beam (40’) this should be adjusted to your length of cover (ours was 40ft long)
Quantity
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Description
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4
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2 x 6 x 12’
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2
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2 x 6 x 16’
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15
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1 x 6 x 8’ Cedar Boards (optional)
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c. Ledger
Quantity
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Description
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2
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2 x 6 x 12’
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1
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2 x 6 x 16’
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16
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3.5" 3/8 Lag Bolts
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16
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3/8 Washer
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d. Rafters AKA Roof Support (Our patio was 40 ft in length but we left the last 10 ft uncovered so the amount of rafters is actually for covering 30 ft and leaving the last bit un raftered with hanging string lights so sun could get to our pool, more on that later)
Quantity
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Description
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17
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2 x 6 x 12’
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15
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Joist Hanger
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2
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Concealed Face Joist Hanger (for ends on Ledger)
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15
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Metal Tie
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2
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Face Mount Joist Hanger Tie (for ends on Cross Beam)
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10
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2 x 6 x 8' (See Cutlist)
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e. Corbel/Gusset - 6 total (this is not optional, it is very important for structure - but it also looks pretty - win/win)
Quantity
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Description
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2
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2 x 6 x 12’
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24
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5.5” 3/8 Lag Bolts
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24
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3/8 Washers
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f. Roof - They have our metal panel roofing at home depot but we found it cheaper and also easier to get at a local roofing company who also had the right screws and bent our flashing to the correct angle
Quantity
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Description
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10
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3’ x 12’ R Panel Metal Roofing
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3
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10’ End Wall Trim (5° Bend)
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1 Bag
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1” Screws with rubber washers
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The rest of this material list is optional - meaning it wont add to the structure and its all just an aesthetic change we added to get the look we were going for!
Ceiling (this is optional - we did it for aesthetic purposes and it is not needed for the structure)
Quantity
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Description
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120
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¼” x 5.5” x 6’ Cedar Boards (optional)
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Aesthetic Hardware (optional)
Quantity
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Description
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4
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4” x 4” Flat T Strap (Black Powder Coated)
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4
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4” x 4” Flat L Strap (Black Powder Coated)
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24
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Black Powder Coat Hex Head Washer
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24
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Black Powder Coat Wood Screw
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Cut List
You may have to do more cuts depending on the length of your patio cover and also take into account that our patio is 12' in depth so that is why our vertical rafter pieces are 12' - so adjust accordingly to your own patio depth
Quantity
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Description
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17
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2 x 6 x 12’ Cut 5° on each end parallel (Rafter Beams) - Calculation and images below in rafter section
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38
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2 x 6 x 22.5” (Horizontal
Rafter pieces)
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6
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4 x 6 x 32” (Long Edge) Cut 45° on each end - image below in Corbel/Gusset section below
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Lets get started!
I suggest doing a rough sketch of your own patio's dimensions to see what lengths of wood would better fit your own patio. This sketch is also when you need pay special attention to where your door, window, steps whatever you have in your space will be in relation to your posts. We made the space between support posts in the middle of our patio cover a little wider apart so that when looking out our back doors you wouldn't look straight at a support post disturbing that line of vision. It's very important to make things look symmetrical and think about the views from all the spaces inside and out and the sketch will help this.
a. Posts (Highlighted in yellow in the image below)
After you have your materials you need, I would lay out or mark where you are putting the posts and check once again (because you cant go back once you have started!) that everything makes sense with windows, doors and anything else that could be obstructed on your patio. The optional cedar boards are an aesthetic aspect we added so that the posts would look like cedar and have a more finished look! It's completely optional but will also fully transform the look of your patio! If you want to save money for now you could always do the cedar wraps later!
The husband's insert: For securing the posts, we bought 4 post bases and 4 concrete anchors to anchor the post bases to our concrete patio. I had to buy a 6" long 5/8" concrete drill bit to drill the pilot holes for the anchor. Things We Learned the Hard Way: I tried using a regular battery powered drill for these and came to realize that it would have taken a week of drilling, charging the battery and drilling more. I had to end up borrowing a corded 1/2" drill with more juice from my dad to get the anchor holes completed. Once I switched drills, I finished the holes in 20 min. The information for how deep to drill the holes is on the anchor packaging. Once the pilot holes for the anchors were complete, I anchored the post bases to the concrete.
Next, we put the 4 x 6 x 8 ft posts in the post bases and screwed them in with 3" wood screws. We had the 6" side of the 4 x 6 face the house. It is important to get the posts approximately level but it is not extremely important to get them perfectly level because the cross beam and then the corbels will fix any imperfections. Note: the posts will be very wobbly right now because all that is holding them up are the post bases that don't have a lot of support side to side.
b. Cross Beam (Highlighted in yellow in the image below)
After you have your posts set you will start on the cross beam along the top of the support posts which will support the weight of your roof. We again added the optional cedar wraps to the cross beam to add to the look but it is not a necessary part of the project.
Husband's insert: I wanted this to be strong so that there wouldn't be any sag in the middle of the beams when there is weight from the roof and later snow so I decided to use two 2 x 6's screwed together for strength. Using 3" wood screws, I screwed together two 2 x 6 x 12 ft pieces for each end and two 2 x 6 x 16 ft pieces for the middle. The end product is almost a 4 x 6. Next, with a partner, I lifted one of the 12 ft pieces up to one of the end sets of posts. When you are done placing this the end post should be completely covered by the cross beam and the middle post should have half covered. The other half will be used by the middle cross beam. Make sure that the dimensions from the bottom of one post to the other and the top of one post to the other are the same. Again, levelness is not that important but if the top dimension and bottom dimension are not the same, when you go to level it, you will have issues. If you do not have the same dimensions, move the cross beam on the outside post until you do before moving on.
Since the posts are 4 x 6 (actual dims 3.5 x 5.5) and the cross beams are two 2 x 6's (actual dims 3 x 5.5), there is 1/2" extra wood showing on the posts, so where do you place the beam? Because I was going to wrap the posts and beam with cedar boards, I decided to place the cross beam flush with the inside of the post (side facing house) and take care of the rest later. It is up to you how you want to complete this.
Now that the cross beam is in place you don't want it to move. Place temporary Metal Tie plates (example) in place with 1-1/4" wood screws to secure the cross beam to the posts. Next, with a partner, place the 16 ft cross beam. This should go from the middle of one center post to the middle of the other. Check the bottom dimension to the top dimension between the two posts. If the cross beam is longer than what the center to the center of the posts should be, you will need to trim it. You can trim the cross beam with both the 2 x 6's screwed together just make sure you don't cut into any screws. Once, you have the middle cross beam in place, add the metal tie plates to keep it in place and complete the final end beam.
c. Ledger (Highlighted in yellow in the image below)
Next we need the ledger. This step is important and the only reason I know that this will matter and you should not allow the cover to be secured straight to the house is because our old house had 3 inspections done (1 from us and 2 potential buyers) and every single time the inspection came back that our cover had no ledger and was flagged as not being done correctly because it was secured straight into the house. That cover was there when we bought the house, we did not build it, but every time I was so worried it would make the sale fall through. SO this time I wanted to avoid it even being a problem! Plus... its more structurally able to handle whatever comes its way and that's a good enough reason right there!
The husband's insert: The Ledger is very simple. The hard part is determining where on your house it needs to be. This is where you calculate what the run of your house is going to be. I did some research and determined that a drop of 1 foot over 12 feet worked just fine for our area. So I knew that I just needed to put the ledger 1 foot higher than the top of the post plus cross beam.
Since I knew the Rafters were going to be 2x6's, the ledger also needs to be 2 x 6 all the way across. For this I used two 2 x 6 x 12 ft pieces and one 2 x 6 x 16 ft piece. For each of the 12 ft boards I evenly spaced spots for five 3.5" 3/8 bolts (with washers) and drilled 5/16" pilot holes for each. For the 16 ft board, I evenly spaced 6 spots for the bolts and drilled pilot holes. Next, it is time to put the ledger boards up. First you should mark where the top of your ledger should be on the house. Next, it is time to lift the board up with a partner. This is going to be difficult for your partner for a bit because they have to hold it up while you drill the pilot hole into the house, bolt the board in, get down, move the ladder and do the same for their side. This is also tricky for you because you have to hold the board up while you drill the 5/16" pilot hole for the house and secure the first bolt. When you get down and move your ladder to the other end, you need to make sure you have a level when you climb back up so that you can level the board. Have your partner hold the board perfectly level while you drill a pilot hole and secure the bolt. Finally both you and your partner can let go. Now you can secure the other bolts on that board. Complete, the 16 foot board and then the 12 foot board in the same manner with your partner.
d. Rafters (Highlighted in yellow in the image below)
The rafters evenly displace the weight of the patio cover therefore are very important! I would actually say that if you get heavier snow falls to add more support. Better safe than sorry in my opinion which is why we may have even done more support than actually needed but at least we will be safe! Also keep in mind when looking at our materials we left the last 10' open of our patio cover to let sunlight through to warm up our pool - but we also made it so if we wanted to cover the last 10' we just have to add the rafters and put the roof up!
The husband's insert: The first step for the rafters is to place the brackets on the ledger and the cross beam. It is important for these to be very evenly spaced. We decided that we would have the rafters be 2 ft apart from center to center so I cut an extra 2x4 that I had hanging around to exactly 2 ft to be my gauge for marking where the brackets would be. When you start, since we are doing 2 ft from the center of one beam to the center of the next, you need to take into account that first beam and not start your measurement from the end. What I ended up doing was installing the end brackets first so I could more accurately measure from center to center all the way down. End brackets I used: Ledger Face Joist Hanger and Cross Beam Joist Hanger Tie. After marking the location for each of the rest of the brackets, I installed the brackets with 3" Wood Screws into the ledger and cross beam. Brackets used: Joist Hangers (for Ledger) and Metal Ties (for Cross beam).
Now it is time to make the cuts on the rafters so that the angles match up with the ledger and will be level on each end. In the Ledger step, we determined that we were going to do a drop of 1 foot over 12 feet. Now we need to determine what angle that is going to be so we can make cuts. Now I could get out my graphing calculator and do some SOH CAH TOA or I can use the Angle Calculator that I found online to do that work for me. Website for Angle Calculator. In the "Select Elements" field, I select base and height because I know that I am going 12 feet out for my base and 1 foot drop for my height. After pressing execute I have my angle of 4.76° or approximately 5°. See image below.
I am going to cut my 2 x 6 x 12 ft rafters on each end to have an angle of 5° on each side parallel.
Next it is time to install the rafters close to each post. This is where you level your posts. Place the rafters in the bracket on the ledger and the bracket on the cross beam. First secure your rafter to the ledger brackets with 3" wood screws. Make sure your post is level before securing the rafter to the cross beam with 1-1/4" screws. Repeat for each of the posts. After the posts are level, you can place the rest of your rafters in place and secure them with 3" screws on the ledger and 1-1/4" screws on the cross beam brackets.
Note: I left the end rafter unsecured in case I needed to adjust it to fit the roof better.
The horizontal rafter connector pieces were easily the most time consuming part of the whole project. This is because there is a lot of cutting and a lot of ladder movement. I used 2 x 6 x 8 ft pieces and cut 22.5 pieces for in between each set of rafters. As you can see from the picture below, the pieces are staggered. There is 3 and then 2 and then 3 and so on. I spaced them evenly and it was easy since 12 divides by both 3 (for the ones with 2 pieces) to 4 ft spacing and 4 (for the ones with the 3 pieces) to 3 feet spacing. For this step, I measured out the spacing on both the end to the rafter 30 feet away and used a chalk line so that they were even all the way down. The next step is to start installing them. Some were very tight and some were loose when I put them up. When they were loose, I used a clamp to keep it in place for when I screwed it in. I used two 3" screws on each side for a total of 4 screws for each piece.
Note: The reason I did these staggered was because if they were all on the same line, it would have been difficult to screw them in. I would have had to screw them in at angles.
e. Corbels/Gusset (Highlighted in yellow in the image below)
At this point I was starting to get a litttttle nervous about the structural integrity of the covered patio. I trusted my engineer husband buuuut whenever you pushed on the structural posts it would move a little and it freaked me out! Before the rafters were completely done, we decided to add corbels and OMG I am still shocked on how much those big corbels I loved because of the look were actually keeping that thing from moving one little centimeter! We installed the corbels before we finished the horizontal rafters just to make it more secure while we were working on it.
The husband's insert: The corbels are very simple and look really good. I started by determining how large to make the corbels. I just divided the 8 foot 4 x 6 by 3 to determine the largest I could do and still get 3 corbels out of one 8 foot piece. The length of the long end ended up being 32". I could have done slightly longer but I thought 32" was a good starting point. Basically, you have to cut a 45° angle on the end of each piece
f. Roof
The husband's insert: the whole structure should be in place now. Now it is time to add the roof. You could do a metal roof or an asphalt roof. We chose to go with metal because it was going to end up cheaper. As mentioned before, we purchased the roof, screws and trim from a local metal roofing company and it ended up cheaper than Home Depot. If you are more comfortable at Home Depot though, they do have what you need there. This is a two person job.
You have to do each 3 foot wide panel one at a time. The edge with the fat lip (see image below right side) should go on the end rafter first. It should be secured with the 1 " metal screws with finish to match on the horizontal rafter pieces. I found this really difficult and even missed the rafters at the beginning. One thing that can be done for lining up where the screws go is running a chalk line where each of the horizontal rafter connector pieces are. The problem with this is that you have to go and clean it off afterward because the rain will not clean it off, it will need to be rubbed off. After the first panel is secured, the next panel goes up. The skinny lip (see image below left side) goes on top of the fat lip of the metal panel. Continue installing each panel. When you get to the last panel, adjust the final rafter, so that it fits the roofing best. I added the end wall trim as I installed the panels but it would be possible to do it at the end as well.
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Optional decorative hardware
We ended up using to flat T strap and L strap brackets for aesthetic purposes, see images below. Components: T Straps, L Straps, Hex Head Washers and Washer Head Screws.
Optional cedar ceiling
You know what I didn't like... looking up at the underside of the metal roofing between the rafters. Everyone else loved it and didn't understand my OCD needing it to be 100% aesthetically pleasing so I know deep down it was fine the way it is but we found a pallet of cedar boards for CHEAP and a bonus...we'd have left overs so if we wanted to make a shiplap wall or any other dang thing, we'd have a whole world of options... so we pulled the trigger and did the cedar ceiling. *if you don't have the budget for the cedar I do think renting a paint sprayer and painting the underside all one color would actually make a cheap but drastic difference as well! Usually you see tongue and groove cedar ceiling but because we got the cedar planks for a GREAT price and didn't really need it to be perfect/sealed/whatever other reason you need tongue and groove, we found a cheaper way and now that its done I can say I LOVEEEEEE IT. I was a little nervous it wouldn't look right but its perfect and added so much to the whole look of the project. I would even say if you don't have the budget now you can do it later and that's the best part... there are so many parts of this project that you can add on to as you have a little extra money. It doesn't have to all be done at once! I even loved the look of the structural rafters without the roof panels... it looked like a pergola so you could even wait on the roof panels if you wanted! Okay moving on (I'm just so excited about this result!!) we wanted to use a spacer that gave a little space between boards on the length edge, which then adds a little buffer for some weird boards that jut out a little or vice versa as our boards were far from perfect!
So that's it! We now have the covered porch of my dreams and literally have gotten soooo many compliments about it that I knew we needed to make a post to encourage others to do the same thing! It's a lot of work but it is sooooo worth it! All of our patio furniture is going to stay nice and dry and I have already spent a few mornings out under the cover during a summer rain storm and its HEAVENLY.
Thanks for reading and tag us in all of your projects if you use our design or even if you do or have done one that isnt exactly the same, we love seeing what you guys come up with and DIY regardless!! Our Instragram is dreamdesign_repeat and you can find a link to it in the menu bar! Give us a follow and tag us in your covered porch pics!
** Please keep in mind that we are not "professionals" my husband is an engineer and we did do a ton of research but we do not do this for a living we are just avid DIYers!
Have fun saving money and making things pretty
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